Retinoids are not a miracle, according to the experts: Here’s what the unspoken reality looks like

When dermatologists talk about retinoids, it almost sounds like miracle talk: they can smooth wrinkles, reduce acne, even out skin tone and restore brightness. But anyone who has experienced this “miracle” firsthand knows that the first few weeks are anything but miraculous. Skin burns, flakes and looks worse than before. Many people quit before they even see results.

The reality is different from what is often presented in advertisements. Retinoids are not a magic ingredient that will erase wrinkles overnight – rather, they kick-start the changes your skin needs to find balance again. They slowly teach it to shed old layers and create new ones. And while it’s not pleasant at first, it’s part of the process. It’s this transitional phase, where skin first gets worse before it gets better, that experts don’t let go of.

What’s going on under the surface?

Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A, a substance essential for cell renewal. When you start using them, they literally speed up the skin’s natural rhythm. Old cells peel off, new ones are created, pores are cleansed and everything that was hidden under the surface suddenly appears. This is why it may appear that the skin has deteriorated – but in fact it only reveals problems that were already there.

Thus, in the first few weeks, redness, scales, small pimples and sensitivity appear. The skin is simply getting used to the strong active ingredient. It is therefore recommended to start slowly – with a weaker product and less frequent application – to allow the skin to adapt. This so-called “retinoid cleanse” usually lasts four to six weeks, even longer for more sensitive types. If irritation does not improve after a few months, it is advisable to choose a gentler form or a lower dose.

Retinoids, however, work more deeply than conventional cosmetic ingredients. They increase collagen production, improve elasticity and help regulate sebum production. In the long run, they can reduce pigment spots, soften texture and reduce the appearance of acne. So they are not just “anti-wrinkle”, but act comprehensively – teaching the skin to behave younger.

What retinoids can do and where the risk begins

Like most potent substances, retinoids take their toll. While topical products with low concentrations tend to be safe, stronger or internally administered variants can put a strain on the liver and cause serious side effects. Therefore, they are only used under medical supervision and never in pregnant women.

From a dermatological point of view, they work as an effective agent that can act exactly where it is needed – they can support the proper function of skin cells, suppress inflammatory processes and inhibit overgrown bacteria. But the greater the effect, the greater the burden on the skin. That’s why it’s important to apply moisturiser and sun protection. Skin exposed to retinoids is thinner, more sensitive and more prone to sunburn.

It is important to remember that visible improvement comes only after a few months. The changes take place in the deeper layers, where new cells and collagen are formed. The skin therefore needs time to learn a new rhythm. After six months, the result is usually a smoother texture, a more even tone and an overall healthier appearance.

For whom they are and for whom they are not

Retinoids can help most people, but not everyone. They can cause severe irritation in very sensitive or atopic skin. In this case, it is better to reach for products with a milder effect or start with the so-called “sandwich method”, where the cream is applied between two layers of moisturiser.

The most common mistakes are too frequent application, combination with other active ingredients or insufficient UV protection. Retinoids with vitamin C, acids or peels can do more harm than good. Less is really more in this case.

While retinoid formulations and safety have improved dramatically since the first retinoid appeared, it remains true that it can’t work miracles on its own – it only helps when used correctly.

Skin after retinoids needs time to adjust – it reacts irritably at first, but later calms down and firms up. And while the road to results is not immediate, patience usually pays off. In skin care, true improvement is slow but lasting.